Earthquake Survival Kits

4 Comments

1. JMann
   Posted September 10, 2010 at 2:22 am | Permalink

   1 – It should sound okay.

   2 – Wired to 1 ohm, that amp will be more than sufficient. It's good quality and in all of my testing it can attain it's rated wattage without clipping.

   3 – You probably don;t need 200 ft. of speaker wire. 100 will probably be enough. If you use a harness adapter for the head unit, you may not need more than a few feet.

   4 – The box should be good. Those subs work pretty well in a smaller, high tuned enclosure.

   5 – It looks like you have the bulk of the necessities for the amp install. You'll probably need a few ods and ends, screws and such.

   6 – From the looks of it, you'll have to hook the mids and highs to the head unit. You would need a seperate, 4 channel amp to power them any other way.

   7 – Yes, you can wire 2 dual 4 ohm subs to a one ohm load. Wire the coils and the subs together in parallel. Use option 1 from this link.

   All in all. The only thing that I would change in the set up would be the head unit. The legacy units aren't very good quality. They have a tendency of crapping out after a few months. In my opinion, you would be much happier with a different unit. Look for a Clarion, Alpine, or Eclipse that fits your price range.

2. JMann
   Posted November 20, 2010 at 11:05 am | Permalink

   1 – It should sound okay.

   2 – Wired to 1 ohm, that amp will be more than sufficient. It's good quality and in all of my testing it can attain it's rated wattage without clipping.

   3 – You probably don;t need 200 ft. of speaker wire. 100 will probably be enough. If you use a harness adapter for the head unit, you may not need more than a few feet.

   4 – The box should be good. Those subs work pretty well in a smaller, high tuned enclosure.

   5 – It looks like you have the bulk of the necessities for the amp install. You'll probably need a few ods and ends, screws and such.

   6 – From the looks of it, you'll have to hook the mids and highs to the head unit. You would need a seperate, 4 channel amp to power them any other way.

   7 – Yes, you can wire 2 dual 4 ohm subs to a one ohm load. Wire the coils and the subs together in parallel. Use option 1 from this link.

   All in all. The only thing that I would change in the set up would be the head unit. The legacy units aren't very good quality. They have a tendency of crapping out after a few months. In my opinion, you would be much happier with a different unit. Look for a Clarion, Alpine, or Eclipse that fits your price range.

3. nyoandricky
   Posted January 10, 2011 at 1:21 pm | Permalink

   those subs r real good they hold there own for spl comp. as far as the amp you probably want to change the brand cause a long time ago when i first started to get into audio i got the riot series and they sucked. if money is a factor i would go with hifonics 2000rms 1 ohm on ebay for about 250. as far as the other post about RF p3 they really suck they dont even last 5 min with 1000 watts thrown at them
   trust me youtube it. chek this list out:

   HU = Head Units
   A = Amps
   SW = Subs
   Sp = Mids/Highs
   M = Multimedia
   All = Entire Line

   Stay Away

   American Pro (All)
   Audiobank (All)
   Blackmore Mobile Electronics (All)
   Blitz (All)
   DHD (All)
   Diesel Audio (All)
   Kenford (All)
   Kole Audio (All)
   Legacy (All)
   Majestic (All)
   Performance Teknique (All)
   Phase Linear (All)
   Pyle (All)
   Pyramid (All)
   Rockwood (All)
   Sherwood (All)
   SPL (all)
   Solid Audio (All)
   Sound Storm (All)
   Street Edge (All)
   Ultra Linear (All)
   XFile Audio (All)

   Entry Level

   Alphasonik (All)
   Alto Mobile USA (All)
   Alumapro (All)
   Ample Audio (All)
   Audiobahn (All)
   Audiopipe (All)
   Audiovox (All)
   Autotek "SS Series" (All)
   Bazooka (All)
   Blaupunkt (All)
   Boss (All)
   Bostwick (All)
   Cadence ("All" tough decision just shy of high quality)
   Cerwin Vega ("All" except Strokers which go in Comp')
   Clarion (A, SW, Sp)
   Clif Designs (All)
   Concept (All)
   Coustic (All)
   Crossfire "P Series" (SW)
   Crunch (All)
   Cutting Edge Audio (All)
   DB Drive (All)
   Diablo Audio (All)
   Digital Audio (All)
   Dual (All)
   Dub Mag Audio (All)
   Elevation Audio ("All" except EX Series (SW) which go in Comp)
   Emerson (All)
   Harrison Labs (All)
   Hifonics "Zues Series and lower" (All)
   Hollywood Sound Intl. Corp (All)
   Infinity (All)
   Interfire (All)
   JBL ("All" except ??? Series which go in Comp')
   Jensen (All)
   JVC (All)
   Kenwood ("All" except Excelon series which go in HQ)
   Kicker "Comp/Comp VR" (SW) "RS Series and under" (Sp)
   Kove Audio (All)
   Lanzar ("All' except Opti Drive series which go in HQ)
   Lightning Audio (All)
   MA Audio ("All" except larger/upper model HK Series amps which go in HQ)
   Matrxx Audio (All)
   MB Quart (SW)
   Memphis "PR Series" (All)
   MTX ("All" except 9500 Series (SW) which go in HQ)
   Niche Audio (All)
   Phoenix Gold (SW)
   Pioneer (SW,Sp,A)
   Planet Audio (All)
   Polk Audio (All)
   Power Acoustik (All)
   Powerbase (All)
   Profile (All)
   Rockford Fosgate ("All" except Power Series which go in HQ)
   Sanyo (All)
   Scosche (All)
   Sony (All)
   SoundStream (All)
   Swiss Audio (All)
   US Acoustics (All)
   Visonik (All)
   Xsite (All)

   High Quality

   A/D/S/ (All)
   Adire Audio (All)
   Alpine (All)
   American Bass (All)
   Ascendant Audio (All)
   AudioControl (All)
   Audison (All)
   Avionixx (All)
   Boston Acoustics (All)
   Brax (All)
   CDT Audio (All)
   Clarion (HU, M)
   Critical Mass (All)
   Crossfire "W Series" (SW) "VR Series" (A)
   Crystal (All)
   Diamond Audio (All)
   Directed (All)
   DLS (All)
   Dynaudio (All)
   Earthquake (All)
   Elemental Designs (All)
   Eclipse (All)
   Focal (All)
   Fusion (All)
   Genesis (All)
   Helix (All)
   Hifonics "Brutus Series" (All)
   Image Dynamics (All)
   Incriminator Audio (All)
   JL Audio ("All" except lower W series (SW) which go in Entry)
   Kenwood "Excelon series" (All)
   Kicker "KX/SX Series" (A) "L5/L7" (SW) "SS Series" (Sp)
   Lanzar "Opti Drive" (A)
   MA Audio "HK2000/HK4000" (A)
   Massive Audio (All)
   MB Quart (Sp)
   McIntosh (All)
   Memphis (MC Series) (All)
   Milbert (All)
   Morel (All)
   MTX "9500 Series" (SW)
   Nakamichi (All)
   Orion (A,SW,Sp)
   OZ Audio (All)
   PHD Audiophile Sound System (All)
   Phase Evolution (All)
   Phoenix Gold (A)
   Pioneer (HU,M)
   Powerbass USA (All)
   Precision Power (All)
   QAS (All)
   RE Audio ("All" except MT Series (SW) which go in Comp)
   Rockford Fosgate "Power Series" (SW,A)
   Seas Lotus (All)
   Sinfoni (All)
   Treo Engineering (All)
   TRU Technology (All)
   Tube Driver Blue (All)
   US Amps (All)
   Xtant (All)
   Zapco (All)

   Competition

   Alpine F1 (All)
   Atomic (SW,A)
   Autotek "MM Series" (All)
   Cerwin Vega "Stroker" (SW)
   Digital Designs (All)
   Elevation Audio EX Series (SW)
   Hifonics "XX Series" (All)
   JBL "JBL/Crown Series" (A) "G TI Series" (SW)
   Kicker "Solo X" (SW)
   MMats Professional Audio (All)
   MTX RFL (SW)
   Pioneer TS-W5000SPL (SW)
   Rainbow (All)
   RE Audio "MT Series" (SW)
   Team RF (SW)

4. nyoandricky
   Posted December 21, 2011 at 12:26 am | Permalink

   Nope, won't work. Amp is worst choice for those subs. And the subs suck